By Penny from Shoreview, Minnesota on July 25, 2012
We have two 60-watt units connected and one 40-watt unit, all controlled by one wall switch, of the thin under counter task lights, installed June, 2011. A couple of months ago the 40-watt started to flicker and appears to be getting worse. We haven't noticed any flickering of the other two units. What can we do to eliminate the problem of the flickering?
By Chris at Pegasus Lighting on July 26, 2012
Sorry to hear that your one of your fixtures is flickering. I have these exact same fixtures in my house. Love them! However, I have also had my fixtures flicker from time to time. When this has happened to me it has been a bad light bulb. To figure out which light bulb I need to replace I close the cabinet door above the particular fixture a little harder then normal. The vibration from the cabinet door closing shakes the fixture a little bit and I am able to pick out the particular light bulb that is flickering. I replace the particular light bulb and my fixture no longer flickers. I am not an electrician, but it seems that the light bulb starts to flicker when the filament in the light bulb is about to break.
I would try to replace the light bulb or light bulbs in the fixture first. If that does not work then the next step would be to check all of the electrical connections (preferably by a licensed electrician) to ensure there is not a loose connection anywhere.
By Frank from Milwaukee, WI on July 26, 2012
Answer:Most likely there is a loose connection either at the termination where the feed wires are tied to the fixture leads, or somewhere in the internal wiring connected to the sockets.
By Nick Trainor from Raleigh, NC on July 26, 2012
Answer:Are you using a dimmer switch? If so, please make sure it is the correct type - many dimmers are designed as follows:
Type 1: Standard for incandescent, halogen or xenon.
Type 2: Specifically designed for CCFL or LED lighting
Typically when a standard dimmer is used with CCFL or LED, you get "squealing" or flickering, and you can sometimes get it by using a CCFL dimmer if the load on the dimmer is not great enough.
Anyway, in your situation the first thing I would check is for an intermittent/non-secure wiring connection between the 60W lights and the 40W lights.
By Robert from Blaine, WA on July 26, 2012
Answer:Since the other two lights are working properly, the flickering of the third one suggests that your problem is probably caused by a corrosion of the power supply line to the unit and or insufficient contact.
By DW from Philadelphia PA on June 17, 2013
My cabinets have 24" of under cabinet space. Is the 22" length OK for this, or should I go with a smaller size?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on June 17, 2013
It might be a tight fit. Including the male connector, the fixture is 22.5in. If you are plugging into this unit with a power cord, you will need 24in exactly.
It might be wise to go for the next size down.
By Anthony from New York on June 24, 2013
Hello, I have BX wire in my house and was wondering if these fixtures could be connected via a BX connector?
By Bill from Clarkston MI on June 25, 2013
Answer:If BX cable is the same as MC cable (armored with an aluminum or steel concentric jacket) you will be able to use the 3/8 box connector. Anti short bushings must be used between where the jacket and the connector mate. The knockout on the light fixture may have to be enlarged using a step-drill bit so the threaded end of the connector will fit in the box.
By Eric from Washington,DC on June 25, 2013
Answer:The BX connector won't work. The issue is that the fixture comes with Romex clamps that are 3/8" to fit the special sized knock outs that are in the back of the light. So unless you can find a bx connector that reduces to the 3/8", it won't work. The BX cable definitely won't fit on the cable clamp side of the included clamps either.
By Paul from Kirkwood, MO on June 25, 2013
Answer:I used BX wire and had no problem with my installation. Mine had a ground wire but I think very old BX cable may not and that might be an issue.
By Terry from Ohio on June 25, 2013
Answer:The Pegasus lights come with a push/insert connector on all wires. You could use these connectors and insert the hot and neutral wires easily. Problem is bx wiring does not contain a valid ground wire, only a metal sheath. The lights will work but the install will not be to code.
By Tom from Rochester, MN on June 25, 2013
Answer:Yes. There are plenty of knockouts available. BX wiring will work if you utilize the proper box adapter fitting which should be readily available at most hardware stores. Good luck with your project!
By Nick from Westchester, New York on June 25, 2013
Answer:Yes the lights can be connected to BX cable, its just a matter of purchasing a BX connector from your local home improvement store. The connector slides into the same hole as the Romex connector. As a local contractor, I have referred all my customers to the Xenon under cabinet lights, they give off an incredible light in the kitchen.
By Ralph from Red Bank NJ on March 3, 2013
A couple of questions about these fixtures:
#1: We presently have one older 2-bulb xenon unit with 10w bulbs, which gives adequate light but the unit feels very warm, even when it's been on the "low" setting. I am wondering if your 2x20watt bulb fixtures would present a hazardous heat problem under the wooden cabinets. Could we use 10 watt bulbs if necessary?
#2: We will need to string 2-3 units together and use a single power cord that plugs into a wall outlet. Is there an inline on/off switch (with dimmer) available for the power cord that we can use to control all units?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on March 4, 2013
Answer:Ralph, here's the answers to your questions.
1. These are our most popular under cabinet lights. Although they do give off heat because they are an incandescent source, it is not hazardous. You certainly can use a lower wattage light bulb if you are uncomfortable with the heat.
2. There is not a compatible in-line switch with dimmer for these light fixtures.
By Leslie Desnick from Minnesota on August 7, 2012
I am interested in purchasing these lights for a new kitchen and have read that the lights throw a lot of heat.
I need fixtures for 36" cabinets.
Question #1. Could one use 10 watt bulbs instead of 20?
#2. What about using the 22" fixture for the 36" cabinet. Will the light pattern be OK?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on August 8, 2012
These xenon under cabinet lights are one of our most popular products and many have no issues with heat.
With that in mind, xenon under cabinet lights are going to emit more heat than a fluorescent or LED fixture.
To answer your questions:
1. Yes, you could use a 10W lamp instead. You will be sacrificing the amount of light emitted by the fixture.
2. We strongly recommend filling the under cabinet space as much as possible for the best light pattern. In your example, you'll have dark spots and spots of light if you use that small of a fixture. Your best bet is to use the largest fixture possible to fill the space.
Hope this helps!
By David from Louisville, KY on August 8, 2012
Answer:In my experience, the xenon lights do generate a fair amount of heat, but nothing like the halogen bulbs we used to employ for these types of lights. Working at the counter with xenon bulbs above, you won't notice the heat, nor does the interior of the cabinet above the lamp get hot. If you put your hand directly under the lamp, you will certainly be able to feel the heat generated, and if you try to touch the bulb you're in for burned fingers.
Most of these types of fixtures have a bright/dim feature and for several years I ran xenon under-cabinet lights with 10-watt bulbs in the dimmer setting in my kitchen and it was plenty of light to augment the general room lighting. I recently replaced some bulbs and decided to try 20-watt instead, and really, it's too bright.
A 22-inch fixture for a 36-inch cabinet should work just fine for kitchen task lighting.
By Zbigniew from Chicago, IL on August 8, 2012
Answer:The xenon lights do put off heat, but only about 1/2 as much as halogen bulbs do. The heat is felt not under the lights, but inside of the cabinet. It probably raises the temperature on the bottom shelf inside of the cabinet 4-5 degrees F.
The fixtures have a high/off/low toggle switch, so you can use the lower setting. The lights are also dimmable, so you can install them on a dimmer switch. We have never tried to use a 10W bulb.
We are a general contracting firm that does a lot of kitchen remodeling. We generally use the largest light that will fit under the cabinet. The whole idea is to give even light across the counter. Using a smaller light might leave you with a dark spot. The light quality is great and our customers really like the result.
By Rick from Houston, TX on August 8, 2012
Answer:The lights do put a lot of heat out. I am not sure about the different wattage usage, I would think that would work. I have also found that the 22" fixture would work just fine instead of the 36" cabinet fixture called for because the lights do put out plenty of light. Under one of my cabinets I went with a shorter one than required and it works fine. Have been very pleased with the lights, they are higher quality and look very good.
By John from Maine on August 8, 2012
Answer:To be frank, I wish I had known how much heat these generate before purchasing - it might have had an impact on the purchasing decision. You can use lower-wattage bulbs and that might have a discernible impact, or you can do what I did and put them on a dimmer, which lets you regulate heat as you regulate the light. I do not leave these on full blast for more than an hour -- too hot. As to light pattern, you should be fine. I would suggest that you power up the lights before attaching them to the cabinet and move them around to see what kind of pattern they throw -- I don't think you'll find that the side-to-side lighting is an issue (particularly if you have multiple lights side by side), but too far forward and you'll cast a shadow on the wall from where the light gets cut out by the housing.
By Michael from MA on August 8, 2012
Answer:I would not use the lower watt bulb as it would have a negative effect on your lighting. The fixture does have a switch to change the light level. The fixture is U.L. listed. I have used these fixtures in several condo units and had no complaints. I also use the 22 inch fixtures under (2) 36 inch cabinets mounted next to each other and the lighting is sufficient.
By John W from Naperville, IL on August 8, 2012
Answer:I don't know the answer to using 10 watt bulbs, but I suspect that the lighting would be similar to the lighting on the low setting (when on high) and even dimmer when on low. This would be great for mood lighting, but not acceptable for task lighting. We put these fixtures under all our counters and love them. Yes they get hot if you touch a fixture that is on, but the heat is not really noticeable unless you put your hand near them. We have 5 22", 2 14" and 1 36" fixtures and even with all running, heat is no problem.
As for the light pattern, the 22 inch fixtures put out a lot of light and should be fine under a 36 inch cabinet. I actually like their light output the best. For some reason the 22" seem brighter than the 32" one next to it.
By Julia Pearson from Baltimore, MD on August 8, 2012
Answer:They do throw some heat, but I have mine wired to a dimmer and it really helps. I wouldn't suggest going with the 22" for a 36" cabinet, especially along a run of them. I would hook them all together on each long wall to fill the space. You can cheat a little in the corners, though, so it doesn't get too bright. Good luck with your new kitchen - I absolutely love the quality of these lights in mine.
By DJBain from MA on August 8, 2012
Answer:It depends what you want the light for. If it is the only source, you will need more power. We purchased them to throw some extra light on the counters. We bought 12 inch fixtures and I was surprised with the amount of light produced. They do run hot, so they need air around them. They have a dimmer setting and a full power setting. We are quite satisfied . Good luck.
By Mark from Eden Prairie, MN on August 8, 2012
Answer:I am a remodeling contractor and use xenon lights for all my undercabinet lighting (and will continue using it until the color of LEDs is better). The xenon are much cooler than halogen bulbs with very similar clean light. The "lot of heat" comment is probably compared to LED, which is true. But for under cabinet lights xenon is fine. I would also get the 32" xenon fixture with 20 watt bulbs, and put it on a dimmer, be sure the toggle switch on the light is left on high. Now you are in control rather than settling for a poorly lit area. You can have them full blast for cooking and a soft glow for some atmosphere. Also mount your lights towards the front of the cabinet rather than at the wall. The light distribution will be more uniformly diffused over the countertop and you won't have hotspots on the wall. The bottom line is don't chintz out on lighting. I just installed these slim lights on my last two jobs and they went in without a hitch. Good luck!
By Patrick from Phoenix on August 8, 2012
Answer:They are not as hot as a halogen. More of a cross between that and a flourescent. The light does not reflect/bounce like halogens tend to do. I would use the widest one that will fit under your cabinet and stick with the recommended wattage that comes with them. Since they have a high/low switch, you can control the level fairly well or add a dimmer. This is the most popular light I use on kitchen remodels. The only thing I would not recommend is any express shipping because 3 day ship is actually 5 and ordering standard delivery gets them to you at the same time.
By Eric from Tampa, FL on August 9, 2012
Answer:I have purchased these for several of our projects. Even if you could (which I don't think you can), I would not change out the bulbs for smaller ones. The lights have a high setting, and a low setting. Most clients always keep them on the high setting. For a 36" cabinet I would definitely use the 32" light. A 22" will not provide adequate coverage.
By Gary from Minnesota on August 10, 2012
Answer:1. These lights come with a high-low-off switch, so you can install them and then choose how much light you get. An alternative is to wire them to dimmer switch - this is what I did. You'll be happy with them.
2. A 22 inch light is good for a 36 inch cabinet - light pattern will be good.
By Bill from SC on August 14, 2012
Answer:1. The lights do not throw a lot of heat, because there is a high/low switch for control on the 22-inch fixture. Ten-watt bulbs might not provide enough light. I would recommend two 20-watt bulbs per fixture, and use the low switch control.
2. The 22-inch fixture is sufficient for 36-inch cabinets. I have a 30-inch cabinet, and I installed a 22-inch fixture with three 20-watt bulbs. Even on the low setting, there is more than enough light. I placed the fixture above our double sink, and my wife is very happy with it.
By Nick from Wake Forest, NC on August 16, 2012
Answer:You are correct, they throw off heat, but this is not a big issue for the following reasons:
1. The cabinets are warm to the touch (not HOT) even if the lamps are full on and this is no issue for dishes etc - it might be an issue if you choose to store perishables directly above the lights like butter or chocolate that might soften.
2. I installed a dimmer, so for accent lighting the dimmer keeps the residual heat of the lamps at a minimum - then if you need to work while using the lights it is usually not an issue for the cabinets, and I have sizes that have 1, 2, 3, and 4 20W bulbs
To answer your questions;
1. I have never seen 10W xenons - if you can find them fine, but I think there are 20W in there as the lamp is designed to provide an adequate amount of light to work for a given amount of space.
2. The light pattern will be OK if you center it, but you may not be happy with the edges - I installed a 32" under a 39" cabinet and it is fine - no problem generating enough light to light the counter and cover all of the cabinet underside.
My personal opinion is that these lamps are expensive, but give off a nice (accurate color temp) light, and an acceptable amount of heat...quite frankly LED lighting is a rip off, and way overpriced for the technology.
By Lisa from firstname.lastname@example.org on December 5, 2012
I have some under cabinet areas to light and wanted to use a 14 inch in some places and 10 inches in others. I am concerned that the difference between the 40W for 14 inch and 20W for 10 inch will give off too varying light. Should I stick with the 10 inches?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on December 5, 2012
You should not have a problem with varying light. The fixtures are designed to provide similar light even when mixing and matching sizes - which is very common for under cabinet installations.
By Michael from Illinois on December 5, 2012
Answer:Here is what I think: The bulbs themselves are the same wattage for both lengths. The 14" has 2 whereas the 10" has just 1. So you won't have one bulb glowing brighter, you'll have 2 bulbs glowing with the same intensity. Sure, more light, but presumably it is a bigger space since you're opting for a longer fixture, so the additional light is warranted. Cheers!
By Paul from Waynesville, NC on December 5, 2012
Answer:It should make no difference. All the individual light bulbs are the same wattage and give off the same light. The difference between the 10 and 14 inch fixtures is the number of bulbs that they have.
By Tom from Pittsburgh, PA on December 5, 2012
Answer:All 20 watt xenon lamps will put out the same quantity of light (lumens). The decision of whether to get a single lamp or two lamp should be based on the area you have to install the luminaire under the cabinet. Also, the under cabinet light has a two level switch for full or half light. Bottom line - if you use a two lamp luminaire in one location and a single lamp luminaire in another location the uniformity of light on the counter will be the same in both locations.
By Mike from New Hope, PA on December 5, 2012
Answer:I recently purchased and installed the 14 inch and 22 inch Xenon lights and the difference in wattage is just the number of bulbs. The 10 inch has one 20W bulb, the 14 inch has two 20W bulbs and the 22 inch has three 20W bulbs. So you don't really get varying light, it just depends on the spacing. The watts for each bulb are actually the same. I've had the lights for about four months and love them. I put them on a dimmer switch so they provide plenty of light when working around the counter, but also great accent lighting when I lower the switch.
By Terry from St. Louis, MO on December 5, 2012
I used a combination of 10", 14" and 22" fixtures for my under cabinet fixtures in my kitchen remodel. Pegasus suggests that you use the widest fixture that will fit in the under cabinet opening, and, for the most part, that's a good starting point in your design. I elected to layout (with bits of masking tape) where each bulb would actually be located in the various width scenarios and visualizing the resulting pattern. I selected the fixture size based on that layout. There are often several factors that can impact your decision on your fixture layout. The fixtures wide angle of coverage helps make up for most smaller gaps between fixtures. Remember that you will see the "footprint" of each bulb on the counter top/back splash and that they are all EQUAL (20W). My project turned out super, with the glow of the bulbs washing the back splash in a smooth, even manner. The combinations of these Xenon fixtures proved to provide me with the latitude I needed to nicely balance the coverage. (When measuring cabinet recess width, don't forget to calculate for the fixture end connectors!)
By Jessica from Little Rock, Arkansas on December 5, 2012
Answer:I have purchased a combination of one 10" and seven 22" Xenon under cabinet lights for my kitchen renovation. I purchased the different length lights because my under cabinet configuration divided the area and I used the two sizes to fit the entire length of the cabinets. They look fantastic! There is no difference in the light produced by the 10" vs the 22" lights. They look fantastic! The low setting is uniform as well as the hi setting!
By Dwain May from Birmingham, MI on December 5, 2012
Answer:Depending on how your cabinet layout is i.e. Cabinet on the left then a window and 3 cabinets on the right. The wattage does not affect the amount of light in one area but it does affect the light in a linear run. I use the combination sizes all the time and have not had any problems with over lighting. We also install them on a separate dimmer so we can control the amount of lighting better then just the hi lo switch that comes with the unit.
By Jeffery A. from Cleveland, OH on December 5, 2012
Answer:If you look at the spec sheet for the lights, you will see that he 10 inch light has (1) 20W bulb whereas the 14 inch light has (2) 20W bulbs. Although each bulb has the same wattage rating, I would say that there may be a little difference in the illumination between the two lights, however, I don't think that it would warrant using the same size light for both areas. In my opinion, I would use the 10 inch and the 14 inch like you want to do.
By Nick from Wake Forest, NC on December 5, 2012
Answer:The individual bulbs are the same wattage and spaced at equal intervals - so choose the length of light for your under cabinet install (usually a few inches shorter than the cabinet) and you will have uniform lighting across your counter space - don't skimp on light length to save money - remember it is 10 ( or 20 - cant remember which) watts per unit length. I recommend a wall dimmer for all of them so you can set the desired light level.
By Patrick from Phoenix on December 5, 2012
Answer:The wattage of lighting is dependent upon how many bulbs are in a fixture. The light is no more intense in one than another.
By Eddie from Springfield, VA on December 5, 2012
Answer:Basically the wattage is a direct function of the quantity of bulbs installed on each fixture. Each bulb is 20 watts so the wattage is increased in 20 watt increments. The intensity of the lighting is the same for each fixture but the spread across the area is different. A good design would be to match the counter space area with a proportionate length of light. Keeping the ratio of length of fixture vs the length of counter area similar. Hope this helps. These are great fixtures!! Very versatile installation options.
By Mary Ellen from Maryland on August 26, 2012
I plan to hardwire these fixtures under our cabinets. Is the male connector on the end of the fixture included in the length? If not, how much extra length does it add to the fixture? It looks like the smallest fixture is 10" long and the cavity under my cabinet is 10.5" long. Will it fit?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on August 27, 2012
Answer:Mary, take a look at the Hardwire Lengths table in the description tab for this product for complete length information.
For the 10-inch fixture, the length including the male connector is 10.5in.
By Mike from Galena, Oh on August 27, 2012
Answer:I just installed several of these myself and you will not have any problem there. The connector sticks out only about 1/4". I hope that helps. The hard wire connector comes out the back. Its the modular plug that allows multiple lights together.
By Patrick from Phoenix on August 27, 2012
Answer:Yes it will fit.
By Mike Erving from Manasquan NJ on August 27, 2012
Answer:The male connector adds .5 to the length.
By Mike from Highland, CA on August 27, 2012
Answer:I just hardwired a 10" fixture. I measured its total length and it is 10 1/4 inches so it should fit fine under your cabinet. Good luck, I love my lights. FYI, I also hardwired a dimmer and it works great.
By Pasqual from Goshen, NY on August 28, 2012
I just had several of the longer versions of these installed. The male connector sticks out just about half an inch, so you should be okay as long as there is nothing keeping you from placing the female connector side right up against the other side of your cabinet. If the fixture is just a bit longer, you could always sand down or notch out the inside surfaces on each side of your cabinet to allow it to fit unrestricted.
By Jim from Winston Salem, NC on August 29, 2012
Answer:The male connector protrudes 1/2'' and there is a 1/16" protrusion of a female cover on the other side. The female cover could most likely be removed to make it fit.
By Ryan Blomquist from Minneasota on September 10, 2012
I find it hard to believe no one has ask about linking these lights! That is the biggest problem with these. These seem nice, but without the ability to custom size your link cable how do you link these together without a foot or more waste in between? What are you suppose to do with that much waste? What a sloppy looking install! Why don't they offer the option to Romex them together?!
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on September 11, 2012
These lights can be linked using Romex wire.
There are 3 ways to link these under cabinet lights.
1. End-to-end using the preattached connectors
2. Linking cables
3. Romex wire
By Kristin from Alexandria, VA on June 28, 2014
I have a 129 1/4" continuous under cabinet space where I want to install hardwired task lighting before I have the tile back splash installed (there is wiring from previous lights). Will 3 32" lights be adequate? Also, I have a 33-inch space under a shelf with no lip where I want to install lighting that will highlight tile that is being installed. Will a smaller version of this light be appropriate, or are there better options?
By Ken from Austin, TX on June 30, 2014
Answer:First, these are really good light fixtures. Solidly built and will last a very long time. Every installation is different. If the under cabinet space is truly continuous (one long cabinet space (10'-9") then you'll want to fill the entire space with no gaps so I'd suggest 4 32" lights = 128"). The lights have a couple features that make this make sense. First they have built in linking connectors so they plug into each other (up to a total of 600 watts). Second they have a hi/low/off switch so if you think 10 feet of continuous light is too bright, you can turn them to the low setting. If you have individual cabinets connected together, chances are the bottom of the cabinet is inset about 3/4" into the bottom of the cabinet leaving the sides extending below the bottom panel making it impossible to connect the lights together without the linking cables (sold separately) (See Attached Pictures). You'll also then need to buy the right size lights to fit inside the under cabinet opening, leaving 1" on either side for the linking cables to fit (a 24" cabinet has an inside under cabinet measurement of 22.5" - total width minus sidewall width times two). So in this case you'd either have to have individual hard wire AC to each light or you'd have to use 14" lights with linking cables (for my install, I had a separate line for each light tied back to a single dimmable wall switch). The 22" lights are too wide to fit under a 24" cabinet AND have room for the linking cable connectors. Individually wired, a 22" light will just barely fit and it gives the most even light.
For the under shelf light, since these have a 3/4" depth, you're going to see the light unless you install a moulding on the front of the shelf that hangs below the front by an inch or so so you won't see the fixture. I've attached a picture of light moulding I bought with my cabinets. You can see by the profile that it'll hang lower than the depth of the light fixture helping to hide it.
Hope this helps...I looked at a LOT of lights. For the price, these are a really good value.
By Doug Garcia from Jupiter, FL on June 30, 2014
Answer:I have used these Xenon, dimmable, undercabinet lights for two different kitchens now, and I use 3/4 of the cabinet space, as a rule for my lights, and have a dimmer. Example, if I had 100" of cabinets, I'd use 75" of lights. If I had 32" of cabinets, I'd use about 24" of lights. I think if there is a question, it's better to use more lights, and use a dimmer with them. You can always dim down too much light, hard to go the other direction.
By Douglas from North Brunswick, NJ on June 30, 2014
Answer:I would recommend adding a 22" to the 3 - 32" units with just under 6" on each end, this will give you even lighting throughout. The 22" will probably work well under your shelf as well as depending on how high the shelf is, your countertop and tile colors ( light or dark ).
By Patrick from Glendale, AZ on June 30, 2014
Answer:The three 32in will probably be okay but I would consider using a fourth and chain them together. You will only need to use one wire run just in case you were thinking that they all may need to be wired. These lights look nice so having one under a cabinet without a light rail should look fine. I install these lights in most of my new cabinet jobs and tend to go with the bronze as they blend into most cabinet undersides the best. The other finishes will stand out and that is not something we shoot for.
By Ryan from Denver on June 30, 2014
Answer:Three 32" fixtures will be plenty of light. I have mine on a dimmer switch and only turn them up to 50-75% most of the time. When I planned my under the counter lighting I estimated one light every 10-12 inches. Your 129in divided by 12 lights(4 per 32" fixture) equals one light every 10.75 inches. So that should be perfect. If you are worried about needing extra light you could go with two 32" and two 22 " That would give you 14 lights (one per 9.25 inches).
As for the shelf a 22" light would work fine. This mostly directs light down not back to the back splash. You might find a better option if you just want to highlight the back wall.
By Bill Tierney from Chicago, IL on July 2, 2014
Yes three 32" lights will give you about 75%
light coverage under the long cabinet and one
22" light should give proper coverage for the
By Gordon from Asheville, NC on July 2, 2014
Answer:We used this lighting in a recent kitchen install and are very pleased with it. We used the 12 inch lights under a 40 inch and 27 inch cabinet. In both cases it does a great job of lighting both the tile under the cabinets and the back of the counter top. These units are hard wired and have two lights in them. Also the distance between the bottom of our cabinets and the counter top is 3 inches greater than normal cabinet installations. I would not want any more light under the 27 inch cabinet. For the 40 inch cabinet is fine and 18 inch unit would have been a good option. Bottom line is they are great light and very bright.
By Angele from Bayside, WI on July 15, 2014
Answer:We just installed the Priori Xenon thin under cabinet lights. They are fantastic!!! My electrician couldn't get over how well made they are and how easy they were to install. We had them hard wired and they are so thin, we didn't even need a light rail. We added a small piece of cove molding below the cabinets just to add some detail. We also put them on a dimmer and the lights give off a beautiful glow to our granite and back splash. 3-32" lights will be adequate for the 129" space and for the 33" you could center one size smaller than the 33. Great lights at a great price!!
By Judy James from Burbank, CA. on April 7, 2013
I want to replace an old under cabinet light in a bar area because it hums. May I assume
yours do not hum?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on April 8, 2013
Answer:This is our most popular under cabinet light and we do not receive complaints about humming. One reason is that it does not have a transformer, which can often be the source of humming.
By John A. from NYC, NY on August 19, 2013
We are installing a series of Xenon Line Voltage Thin Task Lights under new kitchen cabinets, but one of the cabinets is a 12" corner cabinet that the 10" task light will not fit in. Can we use one Xenon Line Voltage Puck instead, and how can we connect them if the cables are different??
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on August 19, 2013
I think you could install it in a way that you include a puck light in the run. Basically you would need to link using household electrical wire instead of flexible connectors.
The problem is that the color temperature would be different. These task lights are 2800K and our puck lights are 3100K. It would be a noticeable and distracting difference.
By Pam from Annandale, VA on December 8, 2013
To plan for a corner cabinet, where do you recommend positioning the light fixture? The cavity measurement on the front edge is 17" and at midpoint from cabinet front to wall is 36". Task lighting is more important than showing off the back splash.
What wiring is included? What needs to be purchased separately? The individual cavity measurements at the front edges are 31", 17" corner, 31", 37" over sink, 17" corner, and 16".
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on December 9, 2013
Answer:We generally recommending placing the lights as close to the front of the cabinet while keeping the fixture hidden. However, it's best to test the fixture before installing in different positions to see what you prefer.
Cable connectors are included. You will need to supply 14/2 standard household wire to hardwire them. If you intend to plug them in, then you do not need to purchase any additional wire but instead the 6-foot power cord accessory.
By Chad from Barnesville, MN on October 4, 2012
I am starting a bar project in a finished room and am wondering if you know how far the distance of the knockouts are from the ends on both the 32 inch and the 14 inch. I need to start this project before my order arrives and want to minimize wall damage. I know the tech sheet says every 4 inches but I would like the distance from the ends if possible.
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on October 4, 2012
The knockouts are 3-1/8in from the ends of the fixtures.
They are spaced every 4in, as you mention.
Good luck with your project and I hope this helps!
By Mike from NJ on October 4, 2012
Answer:I just installed the lights last weekend and do not know exactly how far the knockouts are from the end but I believe there are knockouts directly in the middle of the lights so you can maybe estimate off of the center or drill the hole based off the center. Also, assuming you are mounting them under the cabinets you are supposed to mount them towards the front so where the line exits the wall is not that big of a deal if they are right inline with the knockouts.
By Ryan from Fairfield, CT on October 4, 2012
Answer:The knockouts are located 4" from the end on the 32" lights and 3 1/8" in from the end on the 14" lights. Those are the measurements from the end panel. Keep in mind one side (the right side when viewing the lens in the front) has a male adapter plug that adds an additional 1/2".
By Leslie from Minnesota on October 4, 2012
Answer:I recently purchased some 22" Xenon but have not used the 32" or 14". I do recall that the knockout on the 22" were about 4" from the end. Just don't quote me on this.
By Nick from Wake Forest, NC on October 4, 2012
Answer:Pretty sure they are about 3-4 in from the end then approximately 4 in apart. It's a real pain to pop the knockouts out of there on some (seems like the stamping machine didn't cut deep enough, but on others I noticed it was better - either machine variance or different lots). I'll check the exact measurement from the end tonight when I look at the light and get back to you.
By Thomas from Fishkill, NY on October 4, 2012
Answer:The knocks outs on the 14 inch lights are 3 inches from the end; they are 4 inches from the end on the 32 inch lights.
By Piotr from Chicago, Illinois on October 4, 2012
Answer:It is 3-1/8'' from the ends to the center of the knockout. (14 inch and 22 inch lamps)
By Greg Everett from Port Orchard Washington on October 4, 2012
Answer:In response to your email. The 32 inch light has a total of 7 knockouts that start 4 inches from each end on the back.side. The 14 inch light has a total of 3 knockouts that start 3 inches from each end on the back side.
By Bob from Tucson, AZ on October 5, 2012
Answer:On the 14 inch the knockouts are 3 inches from the end. On the 32 inch the knockout is 4 inches from the end.
By Bob from Garden Valley Idaho on October 5, 2012
Answer:I used the 14" and they have a knock out in the center of the light as well as 3" from each end.
By Tom from Boston on October 6, 2012
Answer:They are about 4 inches from the ends and then there is a knockout about every 5 inches.
By JM from Cleveland, OH on October 6, 2012
Answer:We used five of these undercabinet lights for our kitchen remodel. Included in these five lights, we used a 32" and a 14" light. The support Tech was correct. For the 32" undercabinet light, there are knockouts every 4" from both ends (along the entire length of the light). For the 14" undercabinet light, the knockouts are every 3" from both ends. It gave us maximum flexibility when installing them. These lights are perfect for our kitchen. We installed a black granite counter-top, so we selected the dark bronze finish so we would not get a white reflection on the counter-tops from the light. You may want to consider what is going to be below the light when picking out which color light you would like. The slim lights do not show below our undercabinets. This is a great product. Good luck.
By Mike Erving from Manasquan NJ on October 6, 2012
Answer:On the 14 inch fixture - 3.25 on right side, 3.50 on left side with light facing the wall. I don't have a 32 inch fixture but I think it is the same.
By Jim from Bartlett, IL on October 8, 2012
Answer:4" in from each end is right. Remember that there are more knockouts the longer the unit is.
By Nick from Wake Forest, NC on October 10, 2012
Answer:Sorry for the delay - but 4" and 3" respectively
By Sebastian from NYC on January 19, 2013
Is there an option for a clear glass lens, rather than a diffusing lens? if you cannot provide, can the lens be swapped out in the field?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on January 21, 2013
I'm sorry - we do not offer a clear lens option.
However, the frosted lens can be removed and replaced in the field.
There are tabs securing the lens that can be bent to remove the glass. Once you drop the new lens in, simply bend the tabs back to secure the clear lens.
By KOLZ from Rochester, MI on January 21, 2013
Answer:The glass is held at each corner by a small metal tab. With care, these can probably be bent to allow you to replace the diffuser glass. The diffuser glass is excellent quality and does its job well. Replacing it with clear glass may result in a harsher light and transmit more heat downward to anything below the light.
By Terry from St. Louis, MO on January 21, 2013
Answer:Sebastian, I have ten of these fixtures under my kitchen cabinets and love them. I have never seen an option for clear lenses while researching Xenon Line Voltage Under Cabinet Task Lights. I'm not sure why anyone would want that unless you are doing very precise detail work under these lights. I have simply flipped the glass lens into the downward position a couple of times to give me added brightness for a specific task. Xenon bulbs are somewhat harsh without the diffuser and the diffuser distributes the lighting much better than without the diffuser or, I would assume, with clear glass lenses. If you had custom clear glass lenses made locally, it does appear to me that you could replace the diffusing lens with clear glass. Hope that helps you.
By Jessica from Little Rock, Arkansas on January 21, 2013
Answer:I am not sure if the clear glass is available for purchase; the lens cover is easily removed, it has a strong magnetic connection, that secures the lens cover to the light. The diffusing lens cover may assist in heat diffusion, produced by the light.
By Susan from Daytona Beach Shores, Florida on October 14, 2012
Can these fixtures also be installed above kitchen cabinets? I have a 12" deep and a 12" high space above my cabinets that I want to light with a soft, indirect lighting, on a dimmer. I would want to lay these flat on the tops of the cabinets, but don't want to worry about any hot ceiling spots from the lights. Would I have to worry about the ceiling with this type of fixture or would you recommend a different product?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on October 15, 2012
Yes, these can be used for over cabinet lighting. I am not concerned about "hot ceiling spots" with these fixtures.
For more over cabinet lighting options, check out this page: http://www.pegasuslighting.com/over-cabinet-lighting.html
By Craig C from Praha Texas on January 26, 2013
Answer:We did over cabinet lights 10 years ago and they are beautiful, they accent the tin ceiling.
I have the under and over lights on separate wall dimmers and can use the top ones as mood or a night light effect.
We're getting all new cabinets this year and we will be refitting with Pegasus.
By Matt from PA on February 12, 2013
Hi - I want to install 4 lights on one dimmer, and I want to run the Romex wire through the walls (hardwire). The lights are over 10 ft. apart since they are under each cabinet. However, I see the linking cables come in 12 - 36" lengths. Can I just connect them all with the Romex wire instead of the "connecting wires".
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on February 13, 2013
Answer:Yes, you can connect the fixtures using household wire.
By Frank DeGennaro from Milford, PA on May 31, 2013
What kind of bulbs does this light take?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on June 3, 2013
View replacement light bulbs on this page: http://www.pegasuslighting.com/xenon-line-voltage-light-bulbs-20w.html
By Pat from TN on November 4, 2014
I want to plug this light in, but only need a short cord since the plug is directly below the cabinet. Is there a shorter than 6ft cord available?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on November 4, 2014
No, there is not a shorter length available.
I have a similar issue in my kitchen. I used two nails above the outlet to loop the excess cord so that it is hidden from view.
By iconoclast59 from Chicagoland, IL on November 4, 2014
Answer:I'm not aware of any other length of power cord other than 6ft. You can use adhesive cord organizer clips to tack the excess cord to the underside of the cabinet. I recommend the 3M Command series clips, as they can be removed without leaving any sticky residue. I hope this helps -- good luck!
By Larry from Clearlake, CA on November 4, 2014
Answer:I had the same issue. Did not find a shorter cord, so purchased a plug that could have the cord go up out of the plug, and cut the cord to length.
By Nancy from Greensboro, GA on November 5, 2014
Answer:When I installed these lights I also purchased the thin connector boxes since I had very short lead wires from the wall. The short cords that came with the kit worked perfectly for me.
If you want to plug your fixture into an existing outlet, you could (1) cut the cord to the desired length and reattach to the fixture; or (2) cut off the cord end of your fixture and attached a new plug, available at home improvement and hardware stores.
By Cotton from St. Peters, MO on November 7, 2014
Answer:You can easily shorten the cord and put a new cord end on it.