By Penny from Shoreview, Minnesota on July 25, 2012
We have two 60-watt units connected and one 40-watt unit, all controlled by one wall switch, of the thin under counter task lights, installed June, 2011. A couple of months ago the 40-watt started to flicker and appears to be getting worse. We haven't noticed any flickering of the other two units. What can we do to eliminate the problem of the flickering?
By Chris at Pegasus Lighting on July 26, 2012
Sorry to hear that your one of your fixtures is flickering. I have these exact same fixtures in my house. Love them! However, I have also had my fixtures flicker from time to time. When this has happened to me it has been a bad light bulb. To figure out which light bulb I need to replace I close the cabinet door above the particular fixture a little harder then normal. The vibration from the cabinet door closing shakes the fixture a little bit and I am able to pick out the particular light bulb that is flickering. I replace the particular light bulb and my fixture no longer flickers. I am not an electrician, but it seems that the light bulb starts to flicker when the filament in the light bulb is about to break.
I would try to replace the light bulb or light bulbs in the fixture first. If that does not work then the next step would be to check all of the electrical connections (preferably by a licensed electrician) to ensure there is not a loose connection anywhere.
By Frank from Milwaukee, WI on July 26, 2012
Answer:Most likely there is a loose connection either at the termination where the feed wires are tied to the fixture leads, or somewhere in the internal wiring connected to the sockets.
By Nick Trainor from Raleigh, NC on July 26, 2012
Answer:Are you using a dimmer switch? If so, please make sure it is the correct type - many dimmers are designed as follows:
Type 1: Standard for incandescent, halogen or xenon.
Type 2: Specifically designed for CCFL or LED lighting
Typically when a standard dimmer is used with CCFL or LED, you get "squealing" or flickering, and you can sometimes get it by using a CCFL dimmer if the load on the dimmer is not great enough.
Anyway, in your situation the first thing I would check is for an intermittent/non-secure wiring connection between the 60W lights and the 40W lights.
By Robert from Blaine, WA on July 26, 2012
Answer:Since the other two lights are working properly, the flickering of the third one suggests that your problem is probably caused by a corrosion of the power supply line to the unit and or insufficient contact.
By DW from Philadelphia PA on June 17, 2013
My cabinets have 24" of under cabinet space. Is the 22" length OK for this, or should I go with a smaller size?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on June 17, 2013
It might be a tight fit. Including the male connector, the fixture is 22.5in. If you are plugging into this unit with a power cord, you will need 24in exactly.
It might be wise to go for the next size down.
By Lance from Tulsa, OK on January 20, 2015
Does the power cord come standard with the Priori Xenon Line Voltage Thin Under Cabinet Task Light? Or do I need to purchase separately? How long is the power cord?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on January 21, 2015
Answer:A power cord is NOT included. Check out the Accessories section for the compatible cord. It's 6ft long.
By Anthony from New York on June 24, 2013
Hello, I have BX wire in my house and was wondering if these fixtures could be connected via a BX connector?
By Bill from Clarkston MI on June 25, 2013
Answer:If BX cable is the same as MC cable (armored with an aluminum or steel concentric jacket) you will be able to use the 3/8 box connector. Anti short bushings must be used between where the jacket and the connector mate. The knockout on the light fixture may have to be enlarged using a step-drill bit so the threaded end of the connector will fit in the box.
By Eric from Washington,DC on June 25, 2013
Answer:The BX connector won't work. The issue is that the fixture comes with Romex clamps that are 3/8" to fit the special sized knock outs that are in the back of the light. So unless you can find a bx connector that reduces to the 3/8", it won't work. The BX cable definitely won't fit on the cable clamp side of the included clamps either.
By Paul from Kirkwood, MO on June 25, 2013
Answer:I used BX wire and had no problem with my installation. Mine had a ground wire but I think very old BX cable may not and that might be an issue.
By Terry from Ohio on June 25, 2013
Answer:The Pegasus lights come with a push/insert connector on all wires. You could use these connectors and insert the hot and neutral wires easily. Problem is bx wiring does not contain a valid ground wire, only a metal sheath. The lights will work but the install will not be to code.
By Tom from Rochester, MN on June 25, 2013
Answer:Yes. There are plenty of knockouts available. BX wiring will work if you utilize the proper box adapter fitting which should be readily available at most hardware stores. Good luck with your project!
By Nick from Westchester, New York on June 25, 2013
Answer:Yes the lights can be connected to BX cable, its just a matter of purchasing a BX connector from your local home improvement store. The connector slides into the same hole as the Romex connector. As a local contractor, I have referred all my customers to the Xenon under cabinet lights, they give off an incredible light in the kitchen.
By Ralph from Red Bank NJ on March 3, 2013
A couple of questions about these fixtures:
#1: We presently have one older 2-bulb xenon unit with 10w bulbs, which gives adequate light but the unit feels very warm, even when it's been on the "low" setting. I am wondering if your 2x20watt bulb fixtures would present a hazardous heat problem under the wooden cabinets. Could we use 10 watt bulbs if necessary?
#2: We will need to string 2-3 units together and use a single power cord that plugs into a wall outlet. Is there an inline on/off switch (with dimmer) available for the power cord that we can use to control all units?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on March 4, 2013
Answer:Ralph, here's the answers to your questions.
1. These are our most popular under cabinet lights. Although they do give off heat because they are an incandescent source, it is not hazardous. You certainly can use a lower wattage light bulb if you are uncomfortable with the heat.
2. There is not a compatible in-line switch with dimmer for these light fixtures.
By Leslie Desnick from Minnesota on August 7, 2012
I am interested in purchasing these lights for a new kitchen and have read that the lights throw a lot of heat.
I need fixtures for 36" cabinets.
Question #1. Could one use 10 watt bulbs instead of 20?
#2. What about using the 22" fixture for the 36" cabinet. Will the light pattern be OK?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on August 8, 2012
These xenon under cabinet lights are one of our most popular products and many have no issues with heat.
With that in mind, xenon under cabinet lights are going to emit more heat than a fluorescent or LED fixture.
To answer your questions:
1. Yes, you could use a 10W lamp instead. You will be sacrificing the amount of light emitted by the fixture.
2. We strongly recommend filling the under cabinet space as much as possible for the best light pattern. In your example, you'll have dark spots and spots of light if you use that small of a fixture. Your best bet is to use the largest fixture possible to fill the space.
Hope this helps!
By David from Louisville, KY on August 8, 2012
Answer:In my experience, the xenon lights do generate a fair amount of heat, but nothing like the halogen bulbs we used to employ for these types of lights. Working at the counter with xenon bulbs above, you won't notice the heat, nor does the interior of the cabinet above the lamp get hot. If you put your hand directly under the lamp, you will certainly be able to feel the heat generated, and if you try to touch the bulb you're in for burned fingers.
Most of these types of fixtures have a bright/dim feature and for several years I ran xenon under-cabinet lights with 10-watt bulbs in the dimmer setting in my kitchen and it was plenty of light to augment the general room lighting. I recently replaced some bulbs and decided to try 20-watt instead, and really, it's too bright.
A 22-inch fixture for a 36-inch cabinet should work just fine for kitchen task lighting.
By Zbigniew from Chicago, IL on August 8, 2012
Answer:The xenon lights do put off heat, but only about 1/2 as much as halogen bulbs do. The heat is felt not under the lights, but inside of the cabinet. It probably raises the temperature on the bottom shelf inside of the cabinet 4-5 degrees F.
The fixtures have a high/off/low toggle switch, so you can use the lower setting. The lights are also dimmable, so you can install them on a dimmer switch. We have never tried to use a 10W bulb.
We are a general contracting firm that does a lot of kitchen remodeling. We generally use the largest light that will fit under the cabinet. The whole idea is to give even light across the counter. Using a smaller light might leave you with a dark spot. The light quality is great and our customers really like the result.
By Rick from Houston, TX on August 8, 2012
Answer:The lights do put a lot of heat out. I am not sure about the different wattage usage, I would think that would work. I have also found that the 22" fixture would work just fine instead of the 36" cabinet fixture called for because the lights do put out plenty of light. Under one of my cabinets I went with a shorter one than required and it works fine. Have been very pleased with the lights, they are higher quality and look very good.
By John from Maine on August 8, 2012
Answer:To be frank, I wish I had known how much heat these generate before purchasing - it might have had an impact on the purchasing decision. You can use lower-wattage bulbs and that might have a discernible impact, or you can do what I did and put them on a dimmer, which lets you regulate heat as you regulate the light. I do not leave these on full blast for more than an hour -- too hot. As to light pattern, you should be fine. I would suggest that you power up the lights before attaching them to the cabinet and move them around to see what kind of pattern they throw -- I don't think you'll find that the side-to-side lighting is an issue (particularly if you have multiple lights side by side), but too far forward and you'll cast a shadow on the wall from where the light gets cut out by the housing.
By Michael from MA on August 8, 2012
Answer:I would not use the lower watt bulb as it would have a negative effect on your lighting. The fixture does have a switch to change the light level. The fixture is U.L. listed. I have used these fixtures in several condo units and had no complaints. I also use the 22 inch fixtures under (2) 36 inch cabinets mounted next to each other and the lighting is sufficient.
By John W from Naperville, IL on August 8, 2012
Answer:I don't know the answer to using 10 watt bulbs, but I suspect that the lighting would be similar to the lighting on the low setting (when on high) and even dimmer when on low. This would be great for mood lighting, but not acceptable for task lighting. We put these fixtures under all our counters and love them. Yes they get hot if you touch a fixture that is on, but the heat is not really noticeable unless you put your hand near them. We have 5 22", 2 14" and 1 36" fixtures and even with all running, heat is no problem.
As for the light pattern, the 22 inch fixtures put out a lot of light and should be fine under a 36 inch cabinet. I actually like their light output the best. For some reason the 22" seem brighter than the 32" one next to it.
By Julia Pearson from Baltimore, MD on August 8, 2012
Answer:They do throw some heat, but I have mine wired to a dimmer and it really helps. I wouldn't suggest going with the 22" for a 36" cabinet, especially along a run of them. I would hook them all together on each long wall to fill the space. You can cheat a little in the corners, though, so it doesn't get too bright. Good luck with your new kitchen - I absolutely love the quality of these lights in mine.
By DJBain from MA on August 8, 2012
Answer:It depends what you want the light for. If it is the only source, you will need more power. We purchased them to throw some extra light on the counters. We bought 12 inch fixtures and I was surprised with the amount of light produced. They do run hot, so they need air around them. They have a dimmer setting and a full power setting. We are quite satisfied . Good luck.
By Mark from Eden Prairie, MN on August 8, 2012
Answer:I am a remodeling contractor and use xenon lights for all my undercabinet lighting (and will continue using it until the color of LEDs is better). The xenon are much cooler than halogen bulbs with very similar clean light. The "lot of heat" comment is probably compared to LED, which is true. But for under cabinet lights xenon is fine. I would also get the 32" xenon fixture with 20 watt bulbs, and put it on a dimmer, be sure the toggle switch on the light is left on high. Now you are in control rather than settling for a poorly lit area. You can have them full blast for cooking and a soft glow for some atmosphere. Also mount your lights towards the front of the cabinet rather than at the wall. The light distribution will be more uniformly diffused over the countertop and you won't have hotspots on the wall. The bottom line is don't chintz out on lighting. I just installed these slim lights on my last two jobs and they went in without a hitch. Good luck!
By Patrick from Phoenix on August 8, 2012
Answer:They are not as hot as a halogen. More of a cross between that and a flourescent. The light does not reflect/bounce like halogens tend to do. I would use the widest one that will fit under your cabinet and stick with the recommended wattage that comes with them. Since they have a high/low switch, you can control the level fairly well or add a dimmer. This is the most popular light I use on kitchen remodels. The only thing I would not recommend is any express shipping because 3 day ship is actually 5 and ordering standard delivery gets them to you at the same time.
By Eric from Tampa, FL on August 9, 2012
Answer:I have purchased these for several of our projects. Even if you could (which I don't think you can), I would not change out the bulbs for smaller ones. The lights have a high setting, and a low setting. Most clients always keep them on the high setting. For a 36" cabinet I would definitely use the 32" light. A 22" will not provide adequate coverage.
By Gary from Minnesota on August 10, 2012
Answer:1. These lights come with a high-low-off switch, so you can install them and then choose how much light you get. An alternative is to wire them to dimmer switch - this is what I did. You'll be happy with them.
2. A 22 inch light is good for a 36 inch cabinet - light pattern will be good.
By Bill from SC on August 14, 2012
Answer:1. The lights do not throw a lot of heat, because there is a high/low switch for control on the 22-inch fixture. Ten-watt bulbs might not provide enough light. I would recommend two 20-watt bulbs per fixture, and use the low switch control.
2. The 22-inch fixture is sufficient for 36-inch cabinets. I have a 30-inch cabinet, and I installed a 22-inch fixture with three 20-watt bulbs. Even on the low setting, there is more than enough light. I placed the fixture above our double sink, and my wife is very happy with it.
By Nick from Wake Forest, NC on August 16, 2012
Answer:You are correct, they throw off heat, but this is not a big issue for the following reasons:
1. The cabinets are warm to the touch (not HOT) even if the lamps are full on and this is no issue for dishes etc - it might be an issue if you choose to store perishables directly above the lights like butter or chocolate that might soften.
2. I installed a dimmer, so for accent lighting the dimmer keeps the residual heat of the lamps at a minimum - then if you need to work while using the lights it is usually not an issue for the cabinets, and I have sizes that have 1, 2, 3, and 4 20W bulbs
To answer your questions;
1. I have never seen 10W xenons - if you can find them fine, but I think there are 20W in there as the lamp is designed to provide an adequate amount of light to work for a given amount of space.
2. The light pattern will be OK if you center it, but you may not be happy with the edges - I installed a 32" under a 39" cabinet and it is fine - no problem generating enough light to light the counter and cover all of the cabinet underside.
My personal opinion is that these lamps are expensive, but give off a nice (accurate color temp) light, and an acceptable amount of heat...quite frankly LED lighting is a rip off, and way overpriced for the technology.
By Ray from Clio, MI on April 23, 2015
I have a dedicated 14-2 electrical hardwire line for under/over cabinet light fixtures from my main electrical panel. I plan on hardwiring the fixtures together, then to a Lutron incandescent dual dimmer. One for under cabinet lighting with the other being over cabinet lighting. I plan on keeping the total (under/over) wattage around 80% which = 1440 watts.
1) Can these fixtures be used on a 15amp breaker?
2) Are there any humming issues with these fixtures throughout the dimming spectrum?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on April 23, 2015
Answer:Yes, the fixtures can be used on 15 amp circuits.
This is our most popular under cabinet light and we do not receive complaints about humming. One reason is that it does not have a transformer, which can often be the source of humming.
By Maurice from Denham Springs, LA on April 23, 2015
Answer:I recently completed a kitchen remodel and purchased these lights for under and over cabinet lighting. I had a professional electrician do the hard wiring and installation without a separate dimmer switch, so I can't answer your first question. However, we have had no humming sounds. All of the lights are set on high. The light output is great and we have had many compliments on the new look these lights have provided our kitchen. I have to also say that Pegasus Lighting has fantastic customer service.
By David from NM on April 23, 2015
Answer:15 amps x 120 volts = 1800 watts. So yes, a 15-amp breaker is sufficient and 14 AWG conductors are within NEC requirements. I have these fixtures installed in an under-cabinet application and controlled with a Lutron incandescent dimmer and have not observed any humming at any dimmer setting. You should be satisfied with the installation.
By Dan Paquetty from NC on April 23, 2015
Answer:No humming at all. The bulbs are 20 watts each. You can do the math but you would need a ton of these to exceed the rating of a 15 amp dedicated circuit. Very pleased with the lights on my end.
By Rachel from Nashville, TN on April 23, 2015
Can this fixture be used with the Lutron Maestro C-L Dimmer which is rated for halogen and incandescent light bulbs?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on April 23, 2015
Answer:Absolutely. Xenon is a type of incandescent.
By Lisa from firstname.lastname@example.org on December 5, 2012
I have some under cabinet areas to light and wanted to use a 14 inch in some places and 10 inches in others. I am concerned that the difference between the 40W for 14 inch and 20W for 10 inch will give off too varying light. Should I stick with the 10 inches?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on December 5, 2012
You should not have a problem with varying light. The fixtures are designed to provide similar light even when mixing and matching sizes - which is very common for under cabinet installations.
By Michael from Illinois on December 5, 2012
Answer:Here is what I think: The bulbs themselves are the same wattage for both lengths. The 14" has 2 whereas the 10" has just 1. So you won't have one bulb glowing brighter, you'll have 2 bulbs glowing with the same intensity. Sure, more light, but presumably it is a bigger space since you're opting for a longer fixture, so the additional light is warranted. Cheers!
By Paul from Waynesville, NC on December 5, 2012
Answer:It should make no difference. All the individual light bulbs are the same wattage and give off the same light. The difference between the 10 and 14 inch fixtures is the number of bulbs that they have.
By Tom from Pittsburgh, PA on December 5, 2012
Answer:All 20 watt xenon lamps will put out the same quantity of light (lumens). The decision of whether to get a single lamp or two lamp should be based on the area you have to install the luminaire under the cabinet. Also, the under cabinet light has a two level switch for full or half light. Bottom line - if you use a two lamp luminaire in one location and a single lamp luminaire in another location the uniformity of light on the counter will be the same in both locations.
By Mike from New Hope, PA on December 5, 2012
Answer:I recently purchased and installed the 14 inch and 22 inch Xenon lights and the difference in wattage is just the number of bulbs. The 10 inch has one 20W bulb, the 14 inch has two 20W bulbs and the 22 inch has three 20W bulbs. So you don't really get varying light, it just depends on the spacing. The watts for each bulb are actually the same. I've had the lights for about four months and love them. I put them on a dimmer switch so they provide plenty of light when working around the counter, but also great accent lighting when I lower the switch.
By Terry from St. Louis, MO on December 5, 2012
I used a combination of 10", 14" and 22" fixtures for my under cabinet fixtures in my kitchen remodel. Pegasus suggests that you use the widest fixture that will fit in the under cabinet opening, and, for the most part, that's a good starting point in your design. I elected to layout (with bits of masking tape) where each bulb would actually be located in the various width scenarios and visualizing the resulting pattern. I selected the fixture size based on that layout. There are often several factors that can impact your decision on your fixture layout. The fixtures wide angle of coverage helps make up for most smaller gaps between fixtures. Remember that you will see the "footprint" of each bulb on the counter top/back splash and that they are all EQUAL (20W). My project turned out super, with the glow of the bulbs washing the back splash in a smooth, even manner. The combinations of these Xenon fixtures proved to provide me with the latitude I needed to nicely balance the coverage. (When measuring cabinet recess width, don't forget to calculate for the fixture end connectors!)
By Jessica from Little Rock, Arkansas on December 5, 2012
Answer:I have purchased a combination of one 10" and seven 22" Xenon under cabinet lights for my kitchen renovation. I purchased the different length lights because my under cabinet configuration divided the area and I used the two sizes to fit the entire length of the cabinets. They look fantastic! There is no difference in the light produced by the 10" vs the 22" lights. They look fantastic! The low setting is uniform as well as the hi setting!
By Dwain May from Birmingham, MI on December 5, 2012
Answer:Depending on how your cabinet layout is i.e. Cabinet on the left then a window and 3 cabinets on the right. The wattage does not affect the amount of light in one area but it does affect the light in a linear run. I use the combination sizes all the time and have not had any problems with over lighting. We also install them on a separate dimmer so we can control the amount of lighting better then just the hi lo switch that comes with the unit.
By Jeffery A. from Cleveland, OH on December 5, 2012
Answer:If you look at the spec sheet for the lights, you will see that he 10 inch light has (1) 20W bulb whereas the 14 inch light has (2) 20W bulbs. Although each bulb has the same wattage rating, I would say that there may be a little difference in the illumination between the two lights, however, I don't think that it would warrant using the same size light for both areas. In my opinion, I would use the 10 inch and the 14 inch like you want to do.
By Nick from Wake Forest, NC on December 5, 2012
Answer:The individual bulbs are the same wattage and spaced at equal intervals - so choose the length of light for your under cabinet install (usually a few inches shorter than the cabinet) and you will have uniform lighting across your counter space - don't skimp on light length to save money - remember it is 10 ( or 20 - cant remember which) watts per unit length. I recommend a wall dimmer for all of them so you can set the desired light level.
By Patrick from Phoenix on December 5, 2012
Answer:The wattage of lighting is dependent upon how many bulbs are in a fixture. The light is no more intense in one than another.
By Eddie from Springfield, VA on December 5, 2012
Answer:Basically the wattage is a direct function of the quantity of bulbs installed on each fixture. Each bulb is 20 watts so the wattage is increased in 20 watt increments. The intensity of the lighting is the same for each fixture but the spread across the area is different. A good design would be to match the counter space area with a proportionate length of light. Keeping the ratio of length of fixture vs the length of counter area similar. Hope this helps. These are great fixtures!! Very versatile installation options.
By Ray from Michigan on May 5, 2015
14-2 Hardwire Installation - I'm thinking about linking all of the under cabinet fixtures by hardwiring them with 14-2 romex wire instead of pre made linking cables. This is a new installation in which I ran wire for a dimmer switch. I have one lead from the switch coming out of my wall above the cabinets in which I will begin my run. My question is as follows;
1) With the wiring knockouts on the rear of the fixture, how well is the wire hidden? I do not want to see the wiring.
2) Can it be hardwired from the ends of each fixture?
3) Can they be daisy chained through one knockout of each fixture or does both knockouts have to be used due to internal wiring?
4) Is there any info/diagrams of the fixtures internal wiring?
If anyone has wired these in the manner I'm speaking of, please let me know how well your wiring is hidden. Thanks, Ray
By Ronald from Ludowici, GA on May 5, 2015
Answer:I used the 6ft wires that you can buy with the lights. I cut off the male ends and ran the wire up through the inside of the cabinets at the corners to the top of the cabinets I ran the romex up the inside of the wall from the switch out a small hole I cut in the wall above the cabinets. I then spliced the cord I bought with the lights with the romex using junction boxes. If you follow the advice of buying lights that will fill up the space under each cabinet you should not have more than a few inches showing. These wires look a lot better than romex. Each of the lights can be joined together using the male/female connectors built into each light. As far as seeing any wiring, if you cabinets are standard height above the countertops you will not see any wiring unless stick your head under there to look.
By Dale from Parrish, Florida on May 5, 2015
Answer:I bought 5 fixtures totaling about $200, 2 hardwire junction boxes for $34.30 and linking cables for $28.50.
I was, and most people probably are, in a similar situation. Besides not wanting the electrical cables (Romex) to show, I wasn't sure how fussy the local electrical inspectors would be. No, I did not have it inspected, but I did want to follow code. It is kind of odd that you must protect electrical cable but not electrical cords like the linking cables. I suspect that the coating on the linking cables is tougher than the sheathing on electrical cables. With that in mind, I decided to buy linking cables and hardwire junction boxes. Yes, I spent an extra $63 but it made installation much simpler. BTW, the junction boxes come with a linking cable. With the hardwire junction boxes, you can butt the cable clamp against the back of the cabinet, eliminating exposure of electrical cables. Each fixture comes with small clamps to secure the linking cables, making for a neat installation with no worries about electrical code! I routed the linking cables thru the cabinetry surrounding the microwave oven. This is where they really make a difference. With electrical cable, you would need to use armored cable, either pre-made or Greenfield and unsheathed wire.
The bottom line is, do yourself a favor and get the linking cables and hardwire j-boxes. Itís extra cost, but then again, youíre saving the cost of an electrician, who wonít even come to your house for $63!
So, to answer your questions, 1) It is not. Unless you use armored cable, the cable will be exposed even though it may not be readily visible, same as the light fixture. 2) If you want to disassemble the light, I suppose you could, but you won't be able to use the provided cable clamps (or any others, I'll bet). 3) I think 2 electrical cables will fit in one cable clamp. 4) I didn't need that and I don't have the instructions, but if they are like the hardwire junction boxes, there are stab-in wire connectors with unused slots.
By Tom from New Brunswick, NJ on May 5, 2015
Answer:1. The wiring knockouts are only along 1 edge; that;s the long edge, away from the light. You might call this the "back". I found the wire is not visible, but the fitting that goes in the knockout sticks down and is about 1/8" lower than the light. Like anything else like this, if I did not tell you this, you would not see it; but it is visible to me. A "hidden" wire would exit the lamp and go straight back in to a hole in the cabinet base thus only be exposed in the kitchen 2" or so. It would NOT be visible at all.
2. NO, there are no knockouts on the ends. You really need to either use the plugs they provide on the ends for a direct mate or use their available cable. Many folks complain the cable connectors don't easily mate to the lamps; I am one of them. The connectors are garbage quality; but after you mate them, who cares. You don't mate/demate again and they just keep working great. I installed 6 of these cables and had no failures after finally getting them to mate the first time.
3. No. You run your wire into the nearest lamp, thru a knockout, then use the supplied end connectors to join them together. My experience says to use the end connectors as the spacing between bulbs is consistent and just looks right. You use the jumper cable to reach over to a corner cabinet (diagonal mount). Keep in mind, there is a max number of fixtures you can gang together. Website has those details.
4. What info do you seek. There is a white, black and ground loose wire awaiting a wire nut to your supplied wires. I had 12awg (12/2 romex) and it was a not fun getting that thru the grommet and bent into position, but certainly do-able. I would rather have put 14awg, but who knew ?
On another note, I wired mine thru a "Linear" switch. This is controlled from my "Vera Lite" device. That switch is programmed to turn on the undercabinet light switch every nite at dusk and off at dawn and auto sets it to 12% dim. I use this for nightlight and these lights glow a soft orange. VERY VERY fancy looking !! Exactly my desired effect.
Hope this helps, Tom
By Patrick from Glendale, AZ on May 5, 2015
Answer:1. It is only hidden as well as you hide it. The closer to the back of the cabinet is best with no shield. I use wire mould to conceal when they are more forward and you can buy it at most hardware stores.
2. Yes but it is preferable to have it at the back.
3. Same as 2 but use wire mould and strip the outer casing to fit into the wire mould.
4. The wiring is the same as a fluorescent light fixture, you just have a much smaller space to wire so stripping the outer sheathing is necessary and use protective knockout bushings.
By Thomas from Northville, MI on May 6, 2015
Answer:This is no different than wiring any wall outlet in a run. if the 14/2 exits the wall just at the base of the cabinet then you can enter rear knockout and exit the same knockout to go to the next fixture, in the wall. Since this is new, I assume your 14/2 wire is pre-run from under cabinet location to the next location behind the drywall. There is no need to use the side knockouts. Consider the fixture the same as a wall outlet switch or light box, power comes in and connects to the plug or switch and then runs out to the next location.
By Mark from OH on May 7, 2015
Answer:I was able to install these fixtures exactly the way you are describing. Rather than use the knockout in the back of the fixture, I drilled a 1/2" hole on the ends and was able to feed the wire in and out through these holes. It really worked well because I mounted the fixtures tight to the front edge of the cabinets and all the wiring was hidden from sight. Since the part of the fixture I drilled was plastic, it was not necessary to use a connector. Also, the hole is only 1/2" which is not large enough to accept the connector. As far as the room inside the fixture, there is no problem with the internal wiring. I have been an electrician for 34 years and I highly recommend these fixtures. They are sleek, well built, do a great job of lighting up the counter tops.
By Mary Ellen from Maryland on August 26, 2012
I plan to hardwire these fixtures under our cabinets. Is the male connector on the end of the fixture included in the length? If not, how much extra length does it add to the fixture? It looks like the smallest fixture is 10" long and the cavity under my cabinet is 10.5" long. Will it fit?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on August 27, 2012
Answer:Mary, take a look at the Hardwire Lengths table in the description tab for this product for complete length information.
For the 10-inch fixture, the length including the male connector is 10.5in.
By Mike from Galena, Oh on August 27, 2012
Answer:I just installed several of these myself and you will not have any problem there. The connector sticks out only about 1/4". I hope that helps. The hard wire connector comes out the back. Its the modular plug that allows multiple lights together.
By Patrick from Phoenix on August 27, 2012
Answer:Yes it will fit.
By Mike Erving from Manasquan NJ on August 27, 2012
Answer:The male connector adds .5 to the length.
By Mike from Highland, CA on August 27, 2012
Answer:I just hardwired a 10" fixture. I measured its total length and it is 10 1/4 inches so it should fit fine under your cabinet. Good luck, I love my lights. FYI, I also hardwired a dimmer and it works great.
By Pasqual from Goshen, NY on August 28, 2012
I just had several of the longer versions of these installed. The male connector sticks out just about half an inch, so you should be okay as long as there is nothing keeping you from placing the female connector side right up against the other side of your cabinet. If the fixture is just a bit longer, you could always sand down or notch out the inside surfaces on each side of your cabinet to allow it to fit unrestricted.
By Jim from Winston Salem, NC on August 29, 2012
Answer:The male connector protrudes 1/2'' and there is a 1/16" protrusion of a female cover on the other side. The female cover could most likely be removed to make it fit.
By Phil Van Baelen from Coral Springs, FL on May 13, 2015
I used one these lights to replace a fluorescent fixture under my cabinets. The fluorescent got pretty hot and heated up the bottom shelf of the cabinet enough to melt food. These fixtures aren't quite as hot but they still do heat the cabinet. Has anyone come up with a way to provide a layer of insulation between the fixture and cabinet to prevent the cabinet heating up?
By Dale from Parrish, FL on May 13, 2015
Answer:Our fixtures are controlled by a dimmer and we always dim them down to 80% or less, so no heat issues. I'm thinking that an air gap would be your best bet. Try putting a couple of washers between the fixture and cabinet.
By Alan from Indianapolis, IN on May 14, 2015
Answer:You can build a false panel on the bottom of the cabinet and it will create an air void.
By Ray from MI on May 13, 2015
My cabinet cavity is exactly 1" high. With the fixture being 15/16", I need to know if this measurement includes the rocker switch? In addition, does any of the linking cable ends, 3/8 NM Cable Connectors exceed over 1" once installed? Please correct me if I'm wrong, I believe this is the lowest profile Xenon line voltage fixture available. Has anyone here ever placed these fixtures in a 1" high cavity? If so, please let me know. Thanks, Ray
By Dale from Parrish, FL on May 13, 2015
Answer:The cavity under our cabinets is only 3/4" and our fixtures are barely noticeable. My wife is only 5' tall and when standing in front of the cabinets all she can see are the rocker switches. I'm 6' tall and as I sit at our counter-top height kitchen table looking toward the cabinets, the lights are also barely noticeable and what I see are the rocker switches. We used the Hardwire Junction boxes and linking cables, so the Romex cable clamp is at the back edge of the cabinet and it does stick down a bit, but not really noticeable. If hiding the fixtures is very important to you, consider adding light rail molding. We considered it and I mounted the fixtures back 1 1/2" so as not to interfere with the moldings. We ended up deciding they were not needed. I suggest waiting until after fixture installation before deciding on that. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the final appearance of these fixtures.
By Howard from Mayfield, KY on May 13, 2015
Answer:The rocker switch is not included in the 15/16" overall height. It extends downward about 1/4". These are very nice fixtures.
By Kim from FL on May 14, 2015
Answer:Our cavity is 1.5" high. The lights are 1" and the rocker switch is another 1/4". The cables attach out the sides and to the next light so they are quite inconspicuous.
The rocker switches are very small and I feel unnoticeable. These lights seem to be very well designed. We love them. We also have them wired to a dimmer switch which makes the lighting more beautiful.
By Hassen from Wellesley, MA on May 14, 2015
I installed in a 1 inch cabinet cavity and the fixtures fit very nicely. I selected them specifically because of the low profile and these were the thinnest I could find.
The rocker switch is not included in the 15/16" measurement. To the tip of the rocker, is approx 1/4" additional however it is set back 2 1/2" from the front edge and minimally noticeable. Also the cable connectors do not exceed the overall 15/16" profile.
Hope that helps.
By Ray from MI on May 19, 2015
I'm using these fixtures for my under cabinet accent lighting. I would like to know if anyone has used these over their kitchen sink instead of a can or other type fixture? Installation would be behind my 42" valance that has a built in shelf that is flush with the top of my upper cabinets. I'm thinking of installing the 32" fixture with a Lutron dimmer as I do for the under cabinet lighting.
By Coco from Austin, TX on May 20, 2015
Answer:You may want a more directional light. If you just want to illuminate, they are fine, but if it's over a sink you should use a can LED light or incandescent.
By Ryan Blomquist from Minneasota on September 10, 2012
I find it hard to believe no one has ask about linking these lights! That is the biggest problem with these. These seem nice, but without the ability to custom size your link cable how do you link these together without a foot or more waste in between? What are you suppose to do with that much waste? What a sloppy looking install! Why don't they offer the option to Romex them together?!
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on September 11, 2012
These lights can be linked using Romex wire.
There are 3 ways to link these under cabinet lights.
1. End-to-end using the preattached connectors
2. Linking cables
3. Romex wire
By Kristin from Alexandria, VA on June 28, 2014
I have a 129 1/4" continuous under cabinet space where I want to install hardwired task lighting before I have the tile back splash installed (there is wiring from previous lights). Will 3 32" lights be adequate? Also, I have a 33-inch space under a shelf with no lip where I want to install lighting that will highlight tile that is being installed. Will a smaller version of this light be appropriate, or are there better options?
By Ken from Austin, TX on June 30, 2014
Answer:First, these are really good light fixtures. Solidly built and will last a very long time. Every installation is different. If the under cabinet space is truly continuous (one long cabinet space (10'-9") then you'll want to fill the entire space with no gaps so I'd suggest 4 32" lights = 128"). The lights have a couple features that make this make sense. First they have built in linking connectors so they plug into each other (up to a total of 600 watts). Second they have a hi/low/off switch so if you think 10 feet of continuous light is too bright, you can turn them to the low setting. If you have individual cabinets connected together, chances are the bottom of the cabinet is inset about 3/4" into the bottom of the cabinet leaving the sides extending below the bottom panel making it impossible to connect the lights together without the linking cables (sold separately) (See Attached Pictures). You'll also then need to buy the right size lights to fit inside the under cabinet opening, leaving 1" on either side for the linking cables to fit (a 24" cabinet has an inside under cabinet measurement of 22.5" - total width minus sidewall width times two). So in this case you'd either have to have individual hard wire AC to each light or you'd have to use 14" lights with linking cables (for my install, I had a separate line for each light tied back to a single dimmable wall switch). The 22" lights are too wide to fit under a 24" cabinet AND have room for the linking cable connectors. Individually wired, a 22" light will just barely fit and it gives the most even light.
For the under shelf light, since these have a 3/4" depth, you're going to see the light unless you install a moulding on the front of the shelf that hangs below the front by an inch or so so you won't see the fixture. I've attached a picture of light moulding I bought with my cabinets. You can see by the profile that it'll hang lower than the depth of the light fixture helping to hide it.
Hope this helps...I looked at a LOT of lights. For the price, these are a really good value.
By Doug Garcia from Jupiter, FL on June 30, 2014
Answer:I have used these Xenon, dimmable, undercabinet lights for two different kitchens now, and I use 3/4 of the cabinet space, as a rule for my lights, and have a dimmer. Example, if I had 100" of cabinets, I'd use 75" of lights. If I had 32" of cabinets, I'd use about 24" of lights. I think if there is a question, it's better to use more lights, and use a dimmer with them. You can always dim down too much light, hard to go the other direction.
By Douglas from North Brunswick, NJ on June 30, 2014
Answer:I would recommend adding a 22" to the 3 - 32" units with just under 6" on each end, this will give you even lighting throughout. The 22" will probably work well under your shelf as well as depending on how high the shelf is, your countertop and tile colors ( light or dark ).
By Patrick from Glendale, AZ on June 30, 2014
Answer:The three 32in will probably be okay but I would consider using a fourth and chain them together. You will only need to use one wire run just in case you were thinking that they all may need to be wired. These lights look nice so having one under a cabinet without a light rail should look fine. I install these lights in most of my new cabinet jobs and tend to go with the bronze as they blend into most cabinet undersides the best. The other finishes will stand out and that is not something we shoot for.
By Ryan from Denver on June 30, 2014
Answer:Three 32" fixtures will be plenty of light. I have mine on a dimmer switch and only turn them up to 50-75% most of the time. When I planned my under the counter lighting I estimated one light every 10-12 inches. Your 129in divided by 12 lights(4 per 32" fixture) equals one light every 10.75 inches. So that should be perfect. If you are worried about needing extra light you could go with two 32" and two 22 " That would give you 14 lights (one per 9.25 inches).
As for the shelf a 22" light would work fine. This mostly directs light down not back to the back splash. You might find a better option if you just want to highlight the back wall.
By Bill Tierney from Chicago, IL on July 2, 2014
Yes three 32" lights will give you about 75%
light coverage under the long cabinet and one
22" light should give proper coverage for the
By Gordon from Asheville, NC on July 2, 2014
Answer:We used this lighting in a recent kitchen install and are very pleased with it. We used the 12 inch lights under a 40 inch and 27 inch cabinet. In both cases it does a great job of lighting both the tile under the cabinets and the back of the counter top. These units are hard wired and have two lights in them. Also the distance between the bottom of our cabinets and the counter top is 3 inches greater than normal cabinet installations. I would not want any more light under the 27 inch cabinet. For the 40 inch cabinet is fine and 18 inch unit would have been a good option. Bottom line is they are great light and very bright.
By Angele from Bayside, WI on July 15, 2014
Answer:We just installed the Priori Xenon thin under cabinet lights. They are fantastic!!! My electrician couldn't get over how well made they are and how easy they were to install. We had them hard wired and they are so thin, we didn't even need a light rail. We added a small piece of cove molding below the cabinets just to add some detail. We also put them on a dimmer and the lights give off a beautiful glow to our granite and back splash. 3-32" lights will be adequate for the 129" space and for the 33" you could center one size smaller than the 33. Great lights at a great price!!
By Judy James from Burbank, CA. on April 7, 2013
I want to replace an old under cabinet light in a bar area because it hums. May I assume
yours do not hum?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on April 8, 2013
Answer:This is our most popular under cabinet light and we do not receive complaints about humming. One reason is that it does not have a transformer, which can often be the source of humming.
By John A. from NYC, NY on August 19, 2013
We are installing a series of Xenon Line Voltage Thin Task Lights under new kitchen cabinets, but one of the cabinets is a 12" corner cabinet that the 10" task light will not fit in. Can we use one Xenon Line Voltage Puck instead, and how can we connect them if the cables are different??
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on August 19, 2013
I think you could install it in a way that you include a puck light in the run. Basically you would need to link using household electrical wire instead of flexible connectors.
The problem is that the color temperature would be different. These task lights are 2800K and our puck lights are 3100K. It would be a noticeable and distracting difference.
By Wayne from Chicago on November 23, 2014
Answer:Is the door in your corner cabinet on a diagonal? If so, you may still get the 10" light to fit and do the job nicely. See my photo. Our cabinet has enough room for mounting a 2-light fixture in the front, but the available room beneath the cabinet increases substantially as upon moving back toward the corner. Moving the fixture back may do the job for you. In fact, that would increase the illumination on the wall at the corner, which falls off significantly in our kitchen. I believe you won't notice any difference in counter illumination. Also see my light at the upper right. That's a 10" single-light fixture within a 12" cabinet. The width under the frame is 10.5". Good luck!
By Mary from Eagan, MN on December 14, 2014
How do I replace the light bulbs?
By Michael from North Wales, PA on December 15, 2014
Answer:The bulbs pull right out, and you line up the new bulbs two pins and gently push in straight. Not hard at all.
By Douglas from Colorado Springs, CO on December 15, 2014
Answer:The glass door is hinged. Open it then simply replace the bulbs (pull out old one and insert new one). Do not touch the glass on the bulb.
By Chad from KC on December 15, 2014
Answer:Open the door, pull out the old bulb, and replace with a new G8 bulb.
By Genevieve from NYC on December 15, 2014
Answer:Easily! They pull out. Just plug in the new one. The plastic that covers the bulbs drops off with little effort. It's all simple.
By Jukka L from Hill City, SD on December 15, 2014
Answer:Notice the type (Xenon, 20 W and the G8 connection).
Installation: turn the light off and wait until bulbs cool a bit, open the bulb cover, take the old bulb off by pulling it out, use cloth or paper to protect your fingers not to touch the new bulb while putting it to bulb socket, close the cover.
By Pam from Annandale, VA on December 8, 2013
To plan for a corner cabinet, where do you recommend positioning the light fixture? The cavity measurement on the front edge is 17" and at midpoint from cabinet front to wall is 36". Task lighting is more important than showing off the back splash.
What wiring is included? What needs to be purchased separately? The individual cavity measurements at the front edges are 31", 17" corner, 31", 37" over sink, 17" corner, and 16".
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on December 9, 2013
Answer:We generally recommending placing the lights as close to the front of the cabinet while keeping the fixture hidden. However, it's best to test the fixture before installing in different positions to see what you prefer.
Cable connectors are included. You will need to supply 14/2 standard household wire to hardwire them. If you intend to plug them in, then you do not need to purchase any additional wire but instead the 6-foot power cord accessory.