By Bill Moore from Charlotte, NC on January 20, 2015
How do you change the bulbs? If all the bulbs go out at same time, is there another part that is causing it?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on January 20, 2015
Answer:Bill, this product does not have light bulbs that can be changed. It has built-in LED chips that emit light.
Yes, if the entire fixture fails it could be an internal component such as the LED driver.
By Richard from NY, NY on April 16, 2015
I have a 30" gap between the cabinets where the stove goes. How do I connect these lights across that gap? I have access behind the wall that the cabinets are on.
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on April 19, 2015
Answer:You can use the linking cable accessory to connect lights across short distances.
By Russell from Cincinnati, OH on April 19, 2015
Answer:You can just run electrical cable in the wall between the two sides. You should be able to access from behind. They do not make a connector that would be safe for in-wall use. Make sure the cable is run from the power source on the first unit to the power source on the second unit.
By Charlie from Seattle, WA on April 19, 2015
Answer:Route a wire (hot, neutral and ground) from one fixture to the next, using the cable clamps and knock-out holes in each fixture. Drill a hole into the wall, through the rear cabinet lip, behind each fixture. Route the wire, discretely, between the fixtures through the wall.
If this wire is the only wire entering or leaving a fixture, you can simply use the small removable panel in the center back of the fixture. You will find the three internal wires within reach behind this panel, with simple push-in connectors. Very handy. If the power comes in through an adjacent fixture, using the end connector, then you have this simple solution on both sides of your stove. If you used the panel to bring power into one of these fixtures, then you have two choices: (1) The simplest is to buy one of their slim-line junction boxes where you have plenty of room to join the incoming wire (power in) to the wire which crosses the stove to the second fixture. (2) You can remove the cover from the first fixture, use a second knock-out for the second wire, and carefully connect the wires in the admittedly limited volume of the fixture. When replacing the cover you will need to be careful to capture the ground wire lug, which is held by one of screws holding the cover.
By Clark from Springboro, OH on April 19, 2015
Answer:Is there a junction box for one of the lights? If so, then simply run a separate line from that box to the second light.
By Michael from Seattle, WA on April 19, 2015
Answer:I fished the wire down the wall under house and up in that space, others drop wire down to behind back splash and cut into wall across where the splash will go at counter level.
By Chris from Connecticut on November 29, 2014
Please confirm these fixtures are hardwire capable without the hardwire accessory.
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on November 29, 2014
Answer:Chris, yes, they may be hardwired directly to the fixtures using the knockouts along the back of each fixture.
The hardwire box accessory simply allows for a more aesthetically pleasing installation. You run the hardwire connections into the box and then use linking cables to connect the run of fixtures to it.
By Dennis from Cranston, RI on November 29, 2014
Answer:They are hardwire. Nothing necessary to buy, even includes the Romex connector.
By Gordon from Oakland, CA on November 29, 2014
Answer:The light comes with a little kit containing a common electrical coupler/strain relief plus a small plug to allow for daisy chaining. You can hard wire the fixture using that kit, but you need the optional coupling cable to do daisy chaining if my memory serves ... The optional cable would go between daisy chained lights.
By Jeff from NJ on November 29, 2014
Answer:Yes, they can be hard wired.
By Bill from Austin, Texas on November 30, 2014
Answer:These are made to be hard wired. The light comes with everything you need to hard wire it. If you're going to hard wire them in a series, you'll need some extra 3/8" Cable Connectors. I had three lights on one dimmer and just ran three wires from the box with the dimmer. (I needed to get a box extension for it, and it was still tight.)
The feature I like most about these is that they are dimmable with a dimmer to control all units. That way all lights have the same % of dimming. In my case I needed two dimmers because I couldn't run wire easily from the cabinets to the right of the sink where I have three lights to the cabinets to the left of the sink where I have one light. I used Lutron's wireless Caseta dimmers for both sides of the sink, which I hid inside the cabinets. I am controlling them with one Lutron's Pico remote control, paired to both dimmers. I got the wall bracket for the Pico and changed an existing two-gang wall plate into a three-gang plate. It now looks like the builder of our 20-year-old house had foresight to put a dimmer for under-cabinets lights next to the dimmer for the ceiling lights and the dimmer for the dining area.
In case you can't tell, I'm quite pleased by these lights.
By Robert from Santa Rosa, CA on November 30, 2014
Answer:Yes, the fixtures are wired to directly hookup to 110V hardwire. Piece of advice...if you have the option, stub the hardwire out of the wall as close to the center of the fixture as possible since the easiest method of hookup is to use the small access door in the center of the fixture. These fixtures are awesome...very happy I picked them.
By Donald from New Rochelle, NY on September 15, 2014
What is the kelvin temperature of the lamps?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on September 15, 2014
Answer:It's 3000K, warm white.
By Roman Kaszczij from Courtice, Ontario on September 22, 2014
I need to interconnect 3 of these lights on one wall switch. I have prewired my cabinets with 120V wire (already in the walls).
Can I hard wire each of the 3 units together with 120V wire?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on September 22, 2014
Answer:Yes, you may hardwire them to your 120V line.
By Gordon from Oakland, CA on September 22, 2014
Answer:I don't see why not (I'm not a licensed electrician). Alternately you can wire one and use the extender cable to power the one next to it, etc.
By Wes from Johns Creek, GA on September 22, 2014
Answer:An electrician installed mine as part of a kitchen remodel, but I know these can be linked with the 6" & 12" connectors sold on this site. Mine are each hardwired directly. I don't know if you can link them without the special connector cables, but there is an installation guide on this site also. Good luck.
By Judy from Lakewood, CO on September 23, 2014
Answer:I didn't do it myself but we did connect two cabinet lights. The people who make the lights make connectors for this purpose. If you call Pegasus, they will help you determine the connectors you need.
By Norine from Auburn, CA on July 5, 2014
If I need to order 7 units, 1 for each of the 7 cabinets, will I need 7 dimmers? Can the dimmers be installed under the cabinet, too, or do they have to be installed on the wall?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on July 7, 2014
Answer:Norine, you can install a single dimmer for all 7 lights. The compatible dimmers listed in the Accessories are in-wall dimmers.
By Dennis from Rockwood, TN on July 7, 2014
Answer:I bought 7 of these lights of various sizes for my kitchen. They are all connected to one dimmer switch. The effect is great being able to dim them all at the same time and to the same level.
I have them in other parts of my house with no dimmers used. These in line connectable LED lights are very unique.
Good luck with your choices.
By Gordon from Oakland, CA on July 7, 2014
Answer:Can't imagine why you would want 7 separate dimmers! Most logical solution is to wire them all on one circuit and (assuming you have a master wall switch for that circuit,) use one dimmer on the master. Given the low wattage of the LED lights, it may actually work better in terms of dimming, since some dimmers have more trouble if the load is very light (like 10-20w). Some dimmers are designed specifically for LED lights, but I've used both types on mine without problems.
By Stephanie from Ohio on April 24, 2013
Are the LED's replaceable? What are the LED lamp part numbers for the 12in, 24in and 36=in?
By Robin from Pegasus Lighting on April 25, 2013
Sorry, but the lamps are not replaceable in this fixture. They are rated at 50,000 hours of average life.
By Connie from VA - Virginia on December 27, 2014
What is the name of the manufacturer?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on December 29, 2014
Answer:American Lighting is the manufacturer.
By Holly C from Wilmington, DE on July 21, 2014
Do these UCL's require a separate transformer to hardwire or is it built in?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on July 21, 2014
A separate transformer or driver is not needed for these under cabinet lights.
By Carol from Oldsmar, FL on July 21, 2014
Answer:I just connected it's wires to my existing wires in the wall. It works perfectly without having to do anything else. I'm definitely not a wiz at electrical stuff either but it was easy to install.
By George from East Brunswick, NJ on July 21, 2014
Answer:You do not need a separate transformer for these lights. The lights are line voltage, 110 volts.
By Douglas from Cherry Hill, NJ on July 22, 2014
Answer:Transformer is built in to each fixture.
By Marvin from Oregon on April 22, 2014
For a 10 foot run of cabinets, which units, how many of them, and how far apart for mounting would be appropriate to provide continuous light on the counter below?
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on April 22, 2014
Our recommendation is to fill up the space underneath the cabinet with the largest possible fixture(s).
To determine exactly how many, we need to know whether it's a straight run or if there are bends and also if there are lips under the cabinets that will need to be jumped.
By Bill from Illinois on April 22, 2014
Answer:I just installed a 20ft run of these lights and my cabinets were 10ft on one wall and 10ft continued on the second wall in an "L" configuration. I sized the light to the cabinets, so if I had a 15" cabinet, I used the closest size light under that size. I used the cables to daisy chain the lights and this gave me a nice even illumination beneath the cabinets. I don't have any dead areas or hot spots. Lights are on a 3 way dimmer.
By Mike from Providence, Utah on April 23, 2014
Answer:These LED units should mounted end to end for continuous coverage. These fixtures come in various lengths: 8-3/8in, 12.25in, 18-3/16in, 24-3/16in, 32-3/8in. Just pick the right combination of fixtures which will fit into your ten-foot space for full coverage. The extra fractional inch of each fixture length must be accounted in your layout. For example five (5) each of the 24-3/16in should fit in a space of 10'1''. If the extra length is problem, revise on the layout or notch cabinet ends for extra space, etc.
By George from East Brunswick, NJ on April 23, 2014
Answer:It all depends on your cabinet bottoms. If they are flush bottoms you need to measure and pick the appropriate sizes from the chart. They can be installed end to end with the inline connector provided. A 10' run with flat bottom cabinets you would probably need three 32" fixtures and one 12" fixture. If the bottoms are recessed and they have a partition between them measure and pick appropriate size to fit between then drill a hole in the partitions to run the linking cable through and connect each light together.
By Marvin from Oregon on April 22, 2014
Thanks for the quick response. It is a straight run of cabinets. I am not sure about ridges underneath between cabinet boxes. Will check with builder.
What do you have to say about the reviewers who say these essentially are NOT dimmable because they hum so much? Are these guaranteed not to hum, even on a dimmer? For the prices, I believe they should be so guaranteed.
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on April 23, 2014
We have a 45 day satisfaction guarantee. Please view our policy here - http://www.pegasuslighting.com/customer-service.html#satisfactionguarantee
Like low voltage transformers LED products need to be dimmed using specific dimmers for optimum performance.
The manufacturer recommends using Lutron's Diva C-L Dimmer for best results - http://www.pegasuslighting.com/diva-c-l-dimmer-line-voltage.html
By Ed from Gig Harbor, WA on April 23, 2014
Answer:I bought these last summer. They work great with no hum. We used LED dimmers. The electrician said that using the proper type dimmer was important .
By George from East Brunswick, NJ on April 23, 2014
Answer:The ridges underneath the cabinetry are actually the sides of the upper cabinets. You would need to drill holes in them to send jumper wires through to connect each light together in series. As far as the dimmer goes you need a dimmer designed for LED fixtures. You cannot use a regular dimmer because the wattage is so low. We have used dimmers before on these lights and have not noticed any hum. Even incandescent bulbs sometimes hum. Sometimes humming is caused by the quality of the dimmer. Most of the time we don't use dimmers at all because it is just the right amount of light. I have been installing under cabinet lighting for years and these by far are the best I have come across.
By Anne from Fishers, IN on April 23, 2014
Answer:Ours are hard wired and on a dimmer switch & they definitely hum. I don't know if it makes a difference if they are on a dimmer or not for the humming, but that was my one big disappointment with these lights. Otherwise, they are perfect. Love the quality and the warm light they produce & the electricians installing them literally said, "These are the best under cabinet lights we've ever seen. We should start carrying these!" I'm over the humming now after a few weeks & it doesn't bother me so much anymore. Good luck!
By Douglas from Cherry Hill, NJ on April 24, 2014
Answer:I have not noticed any hum. Mine are kept dimmed most of the time.