By Francis Cunningham from Chevy Chase, MD on November 28, 2012
What is the volume of this J box? Is it of sufficient volume for entry and wiring of two non-metallic cables? My builder left a junction box where my cabinet is to go, with a cable entering the box from a wall switch and a second cable leading to another cabinet exiting from this box. I'd like to move these cables into the thin under cabinet junction box, if possible. Is there enough room? Best I can tell, I might need 14 cubic inches (2" for each of the 6 hot wires and 2" more for all of the ground wires), but I'm not sure that the wires already in the box even count, so I might only need 9", but then again, those plastic pieces in the box that allow push-in wiring might be considered clamps so these would need another cubic inch. Any information you might give would be appreciated. Thanks.
By Terry from St. Louis on November 29, 2012
Answer:I bought this product but ended up not needing it in my project. It is just a little deeper than the Thin Under Cabinet Lights I installed and very easy to hide. The J box has four knockouts for cable entry. I don't quite understand why you feel you will be dealing with "6 hot wires" though. If you have two 14/2-G non-metallic (Romex type) cables coming into this junction box you should have a total of THREE hot (black) hot wires, three (white) neutral wires and three (bare or green) ground wires when you count the wires already in this junction box. The plastic push-in connectors in my light fixtures each will take two additional stab in wires. Assuming the same connectors are in this J box, you may not need any additional wire connectors in the box. There is certainly plenty of room for this approach. If there is additional room in the box, you may want to connect the two hot (black) leads that come out of the wall plus a short black "pig tail" (just long enough to stab into the push in connector) with wire nuts. Same with the two (white) neutrals. This is because I am not sure of the amperage ratings of those push-in connectors with regard to what the load is on the circuit that is "daisy chained" to the next cabinet. I hope this helps you.
By KOLZ from Rochester, MI on November 29, 2012
Answer:The box dimensions (inside in inches) are 6 7/8 x 2 5/8 x 7/8. Wall thickness is about 1/16. I attached a photo of a j-box installed under my cabinet. There are two pre-wired connectors attached to the box that are used to link the j-box with the under cabinet lights (the white ones in the photo). There is a male connector at one end and a female connector at the opposite end. The internal wiring uses 3 good quality terminal "push-in connectors" (the yellow ones). They can accommodate a supply cable and a feed cable but it is tight. There are two knock outs on each of the two long sides of the j-box. You have to be careful making the internal connections since the white connectors can break lose. Mine broke lose but I was able to glue it back in place easily. The j-box comes with 2 strain relief clamps plus four small clamps (black) to anchor the cable leading to the under cabinet light. One last comment. Check the terminal alignment on all connectors before trying to attach the cables to both j-box and the under cabinet light. Some of mine were slightly skewed and didn't line up with their mating terminals. A small nail can help realign these terminals.
By Jeffrey from New Mexico on January 21, 2013
Will the push in connectors accept 12 gauge (romex) wire?
By Terry from Saint Louis, MO on January 21, 2013
Answer:Hi Jeffery. All of the Romex used to power my Xenon Line Voltage Under Cabinet Task lighting was 14ga. However, the connectors appeared to be large enough to accept 12ga. I could not find any reference limiting the gauge wire for these connectors. That said, if your 12ga Romex would not fit, there are any number of 12ga "push-in" connectors available in the electrical department of your local hardware store that could do the trick. Or, you could simply use the good old standby: wire nuts. Inexpensive and easy to find. Good luck with your project.
By Pam Hillman from Indianapolis, IN on October 15, 2012
I'm replacing existing hardwired fluorescent lights with the LED thin under cabinet task lights. Is the hardwire junction box required? Thank you.
By Jacob from Pegasus Lighting on October 15, 2012
Answer:No, the hardwire box is not required.
You can either hardwire directly to the fixture or use the hardwire junction box. Here are some Pros/Cons that I hope will help you decide.
Hardwire Junction Box
Pros: More room in junction box for splices than inside the fixture
Uses a neat looking extension cord from fixture to junction box
Junction box can be located right next to the Romex wire coming from the wall
Cons: This is a more expensive solution
Hardwiring to Fixture
Pros: A less expensive solution
Cons: Space inside the fixture is a bit tight for splices but still possible
Requires Romex wire to run from behind wall directly to fixture. Some individuals might consider this unsightly and possibly a minor violation of a strict interpretation of the Electric Code.
By Dany from WA on October 15, 2012
Answer:No. I installed three lights over the kitchen sink. I direct wired the center one and used the 12" connector on either side. Since you have an existing wire already run to the current lights, it is a simple wiring job with 2 or three wire nuts.
By Mary from Tucson, AZ on October 15, 2012
Answer:It is required. The connections are different.